High Waisted Pencil Skirt with Ruffle Hem
[Tutorial for sewing machine]
After two years of showing you how to make accessories, embellish your shoes and revamp your old clothing I thought that it’s time for me to show you how to make a clothing piece from scratch. A custom made skirt to be exact. This is an absolutely simple skirt (baby steps) but still a custom made one. That means you are in control of the quality, color and shape of your piece.
First you need to pick your fabric. For a winter skirt I would recommend a “warm” fabric like wool tweed and for the summer a cotton fabric is an optimal choice. Just make sure, since there is no lining involved, to use a skin friendly and opaque fabric.
Since I am sure you don’t need my help with color I jump straight to the shape topic. As I already said this is a very simple skirt-design but even here you still have space to play around. Mini or maxi, tight or loose, high waisted or regular. Choice is yours.
If you decided to go with maxi you need to make your skirt wide enough so you can walk unrestricted. The width of the skirt depends on how much extra fabric you add to to your hip measurement. The more you add, the looser will be your skirt. And if your don’t like the high waisted variant you can replace the wide elastic with the regular one.
You will need:
- sewing machine
- fabric of your choice (I used Cotton)
- matching thread
- wide elastic
- pencil, ruler, tape measure, pins, big safety pin
First you have to measure your body: the hip, waist, the total length of your finished skirt and the ruffle length.
The pattern construction is without the seam allowance. Make sure to add some when you cut out the parts.
Fold the fabric (wrong side outside) and draw the pattern directly onto the fabric.
Wenn you cut out the parts make sure to add some seam allowance. Add abut 1,5cm (1″) to each side of the skirt and the ruffles.
Overcast all seams with zig-zag stitch. I have an overlock machine, that’s why my seams look differently.
Fold the big square, secure the sides with pins and sew along the edge.
Press the seam open. The seam should be placed at the center back of your skirt.
Flip over the fabric for the elastic tunnel and secure it with pins. Mark the tunnel edge with pencil.
Sew along the mark but leave a big enough spot for the elastic.
Cut the elastic based on the measurement of your waist. Don’t forget the seam allowance here as well.
Get the elastic through the tunnel with help of big safety pin.
Secure the elastic with sewing machine and close the opening.
The skirt is finished.
Sew the 2 ruffle straps together on both sides and press the seams open. Make little folds and attach them to the skirt hem with pins. Make sure that the seams of the ruffle (there will be 2) lay on the sides of the skirt. Sew the ruffle onto the skirt’s hem.
Fold the hem allowance so the zigzag-edge is tucked in. For a more finished look, iron again, and pin in place. Then sew at the seam all the way around the ruffle. Done!
Photo by Tat Kauerhof